Devin Cowens founded Radical Adventure Riders in Atlanta to take people on inclusive two-wheeled tours in her backyard in Georgia. But a group trip with Intrepid in Croatia reminded her of the simple joys of packing for a ride.
'I've been thinking. Let’s go on a bike trip together,” my partner, Lynn, told me on a rainy afternoon in Atlanta. “Nothing too drastic, though,” she said, her face clearly indicating she wasn’t interested in joining me in my usual style of bike trip.
I have been riding bikes for over ten years. My brother built me my first single-speed bike in 2011 when I was living in Washington and wanted to start commuting by bike. At first, it was just a way to get around. But after my breakup in 2018, I doubled down on cycling and finding a sense of community.
I moved to Atlanta in 2015, where my first bike trip — along the Silver Comet Trail just outside the city — changed everything. I set out with a few friends, using borrowed gear and a $90 Craigslist bike. It was challenging, fun, emotional – and the hardest thing I’ve ever done physically.
Cycling gives me a feeling of freedom. The physical movement of riding a bike to a place that feels far away but is easily accessible by bike feels limitless. I suddenly had the opportunity to view my city and the surrounding nature through a different lens. It gives me easy access to surrounding trails and showcases the beauty of my backyard; revealing nature as a beautiful, healing place in a way I've never experienced before. I wanted more, but for a queer black woman and lifelong nonprofit worker, the cost of a gravel bike and all the associated kit was a huge financial barrier.
Breaking down the barriers to bike packaging
After I got home, I Googled “women’s bikepacking” and stumbled upon Radical Adventure Riders, a movement dedicated to creating a more inclusive space in the cycling community. I signed up. Cycling became “my thing” – and a year later, I was inspired to found Radical Adventure Riders ATL (RAR ATL), the Atlanta branch of the organization.
The rest, they say, is history. We now host monthly rides, open workshops and bike maintenance clinics, plus we have a gear library where community members can rent gear for free for bikepacking trips.
But it’s not just the cost barrier that I’m eager to overcome. In a world where many queer and black people are attacked simply for existing, I hope RAR can provide a welcoming, inclusive space that provides necessary support and safety for anyone who feels it.
I want to create an environment without judgment, but also provide a space to learn, screw up, try again, and feel supported in the process.
In my practice, I often lead small group bike rides through Georgia, covering 25 to 50 miles a day through the state's hilly terrain, teaching people camping and outdoor skills so they can go on their own independent trips.
So yes – my love for bikes can best be described as “intense”. But while I am an ultra cyclist who trains and rides every week, Lin is a social cyclist who occasionally joins group rides but mostly rides for fun. So we need to find a compromise. After careful consideration, we decided that for a week Cycling Croatia Traveling with Intrepid feels like a great way to meet in the middle.
We loved this trip, which included biking but also had lots of downtime to explore, admire the scenery and eat delicious food while covering a lot of ground on two wheels. But more importantly, it was a great opportunity for me to take off my leader helmet and enjoy some riding.
Contact our team in Croatia
Sometimes traveling to new places can be scary. There are too many unknowns. As a queer couple, we always research the queer friendliness of the places we’re going to in advance. I'm happy to report that Croatia It is a country that provides legal protection against discrimination against LGBTQIA+ people. From the beach to the city and everywhere in between, we had no issues. We behave enthusiastically in public and feel safe in the presence of locals and tourists alike.
Part of it was the comfort we felt in a group of like-minded travelers. We are a motley team of eight people from across the United States and Canada, including a retired country doctor, an immigration attorney, a marketing specialist, and a public health program manager.
We were reassured to see the variety of backgrounds and experiences represented in such a small group and felt at ease while dining and participating in activities with our peers.
Not only is this group diverse in terms of backgrounds and industries, but we also have a range of riding experiences. One person rides an electric bike and the other person is not used to climbing mountains. Happily, the support and equipment vans are always nearby in case anyone wants to sit outside.
Face the challenge head on
As one of the more experienced riders, I appreciate the opportunity to be a support system and cheerleader for some of the less experienced riders. I try to remind them that they are capable, and we are rewarded with stunning views and rich ice cream at the end of each ride – which is always the case.
There are some challenging but incredible climbs. One day we cycled into the heart of Hvar, one of Croatia's most desirable summer islands, on a 10km climb with 560m of elevation gain – I remember Lyn mentioning how difficult it was.
To keep her morale high, I kept repeating to her “you can do hard things” and stayed with her so that she had support during the climb. I also reminded her that we could take a break.
Fortunately, our efforts quickly paid off. As we rounded the hill that was initially blocked by mountains, the scene appeared out of nowhere, revealing a snapshot of Stari Grad Bay. I turned to Lin and noticed the corners of her mouth dropped as she realized how tall we were. Her look said it all: “Did I just climb up there?” That? '.
Safety in the saddle
But aside from having to be on high alert at all times to see the great views, we were relieved that Intrepid handled all the detailed logistics of the trip, which took the guesswork out of the process and allowed us to relax and not feel exhausted when we arrived at the end of each day.
The local guides proved invaluable to our experience in Croatia. Our tour leader Davor taught us important Croatian phrases such as “Pozdrav svima (greetings everyone)” and “Laku noc (good night)” which helped us to please everyone we met on the road.
He also recommended great food spots to visit during the break, including a classic Dalmatian restaurant hidden in the cavernous underground of Split, and went out of his way to educate us on the history of the area we were visiting.
On a deeper note, Davao seemed genuinely happy to have us there and genuinely interested in hearing each of our stories. When we moved from Dubrovnik to Split, he not only knew the bikes but also the area we were traveling through and ticked off three key islands in between.
Learn to enjoy going downhill
As someone who often plans trips in person, whether it's for RAR ATL, with friends or for me and my partner, I didn't realize how much relief and joy I would feel from not having to think about logistics for once.
This trip struck the perfect balance for us: a combination of challenge, adventure and exploration, mixed with rest. Often times, my vacations aren't really vacations: they're just time in a new place, filled with physical activities. In Croatia, I finally found both: the opportunity to exercise, and enough downtime to recharge.
It reminded me of why I fell in love with traveling and biking in the first place, as both provide a deeper connection with the land and my body while keeping me grounded in nature and the world around me.
We all deserve the opportunity to experience freedom in the saddle in a safe, welcoming, and empowering way, especially those who have been historically marginalized. It allows me to go on these vast adventures, one bike at a time.
Bikepacker Devin Cowens is the founder of Bikepacker Atlanta Radical Adventure Riders. She traveled with the Intrepid for 7 days Cycling Croatia adventure.
