The best way to experience local life in Split, Croatia

Start your tour in Riva, the vast promenade along the seafront where Split's activities begin. Here, locals meet before going to work, friends have long conversations, and tourists watch the boats sailing through the harbor.

Have a cup of coffee and relax. Drinking coffee in Split shouldn't be rushed, it's part of the local daily ritual. Sit outside, listen to the sounds of the city around you, and let the morning happen. This stop lets you get acquainted with the local rhythm before entering the old town.

You can also notice how citizens utilize the city through its streets. Some people meet with friends, some take their children for a walk, and some sit alone with their cell phones or newspapers. No matter how different the scene is throughout the day, there is always an element of community to it.

Diocletian's Palace is located in the center of Split, but unlike many monuments, it doesn't feel closed off; instead, life is happening everywhere within these ancient walls. Allow yourself to move around as you please and follow less instructions.

Follow the path into the silent square and listen to the music. No matter what you do, you'll eventually reach colonnades, gates, and cathedrals, but you'll probably end up cherishing the moments of silence more.

The green market near the old town will be the best place to experience the reality of daily life. There are various stalls selling different kinds of fruits and vegetables, spices, flowers, olive oil and other local delicacies. People are bargaining, goods are being evaluated, and everything around is full of life.

There is no need to buy anything substantial there. Just bring some fruit in case you hit the beach, or some bread for a snack. Being polite always helps.

Additionally, green markets will tell you what's in season, giving you a better idea of ​​what's in store for future meals. The fish market is adjacent to the green market and operates on its own schedule – arrive before 8am or most of the best catches are already gone. Even if it's just a quick walk, it's worth it just for the atmosphere.

The sea not only forms the landscape of Split but also forms an important part of everyone's day. For example, in the morning one might explore the old streets of Split, swim for a while in the sea, and come back with a hint of salt for dinner.

The beach in Bačvice is accessible and exciting. You can meet locals and watch them play picigin, a centuries-old Dalmatian ball game played in shallow water where players dive and jump to prevent the ball from touching the sea. It's unique to Split and worth seeing even if you've never attended it.

For a more private experience, it’s best to head to Marjan from City Beach. The water is clearer, the rocks more bumpy, and there are some pine trees for shade. Just remember to bring a towel, water and shoes. The main entrance to Marjan is a short walk west along Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića in the Old Town – the climb to the first viewpoint takes about 20 minutes and is acceptable for most fitness levels.

Food in Split, Croatia always seems to be coastal cuisine. Expect the menu to include some grilled fish, seafood pasta, risotto, salads, local cheeses, olive oil and bread. Plus, pizza is great after a walk, a swim, and the ocean breeze.

Find yourself a cozy, welcoming restaurant. A great dinner isn't about having fancy advertising or presentations. A good dinner means good food and good service in an environment where you can enjoy a pleasant moment. Dinner is a great option after visiting the market or wandering through the palace ruins. Once the cool air blows in and people start gathering at the beach, lunch will feel just right. Try to make dining an integral part of your trip.

Konoba Matejuška near the fishing port in the Old Town is one of the most recommended local grilled fish and seafood pasta restaurants with reasonable prices. When you're craving pizza after a long day at the beach, Tončićeva's Pizzeria Galija has been a staple in the neighborhood for decades.

Don’t rush through dinner and try to squeeze everything into one day. Eat, enjoy and observe Split.

Split's Old Town and Riva are both worth exploring, but a little further afield Split is completely open to tourists. Varos is one of the oldest areas near the city's historic center. The area has stone houses and staircases, creating a feeling of being close to history, yet still feeling modern life.

The hills of Marjan provide Split with fresh air. Locals go there to walk, run, bike and relax. Climb slowly up the hill, stopping at all lookouts to enjoy stunning views of the bay, islands, rooftops and sea.

Local life often shows up at unexpected moments. It smells like a bakery in the morning. Church bells over the old town. Children eating ice cream at the beach. Friends chatting on a bench. The ferry horn blows from the harbor.

These details cost nothing, but they can affect your memory of a place. Make space in your day for them. Walk slower. Sit longer. Return to the cafe if it feels right.

Split doesn't ask you to do much. It rewards attention. The more you notice, the more character the city has.

Evenings are one of the best times in Split. The heat subsided, the stones softened in the sun, and the Riva River was crowded with people. Some were walking, some were eating, and some were sitting and chatting.

Watch the sunset from Marjan, Riva or a table by the sea. As long as you have time, there is no wrong choice. Even though the promenade is packed with people, the city seems calm at this moment.