123 Main Street, New York, NY 10001

Surprises of visiting Venice in winter

Surprises of visiting Venice in winter

Earlier this year, mid-January actually, it occurred to me to combine a three-night stay in Venice, the cruise home port, with one of these stays. “Season of the Locals” by Windstar A European cruise can be an unusual way to start the New Year. My seven-night cruise from Venice to Rome on Star Legend began with an overnight stay in the city center and included stops in Split, Dubrovnik, Taormina and Naples along the way.

I visit often in spring, summer and autumn, and La Serenissima in January is a calming revelation. how so? After visiting the Guggenheim Museum on an overcast day, I toured the colorful and chaotic collection of Peggy Guggenheim, then wandered into the gift shop and was fascinated by a book I found there. binge drink now the politics of washing: Real Life in Venice by Polly Coles, which I found captured a mood and atmosphere I'd never experienced here before.

“It's impossible to live in a place that's three parts myth and one part everyday life and not be involved in every way, from the banal pragmatism… to the profound: what the world would be like if it were freed from the tyranny of the automobile,” she wrote. “What effect does water have on the soul? How does a child conceive of where he is now when he is raised in an environment that is clearly centuries old?”

While visitors to Venice ultimately never truly know what it’s like to be a local, a trip to “Season of Locals”—and her story—gave me a glimpse into life in Venice. It’s an experience that still surprises and delights in unexpected ways.

For those considering a winter vacation, here are my favorite reasons why Venice is an excellent embarkation (or disembarkation) port to build a Mediterranean cruise around.

Fewer visitors

Explore Venice's neighborhoods one at a time. /Carolyn Spencer Brown

While there are still a few tourists gathering around the still somewhat busy Rialto Bridge, the area around Santa Lucia Station, parts of the central neighborhood bordering the Grand Canal, and around the popular destination of Piazza San Marco, the pace of other attractions is decidedly more leisurely than during any other visit. The aforementioned Guggenheim Museum isn’t deserted, but it’s not overcrowded either. Eat in an alfresco cafe (see below for the weather, you'll be surprised), whether in a square, along the canal or in a really cozy indoor place where you won't notice, there's always a table.

During one outing at a Murano glass factory, the grizzled glassmaker demonstrated his craft to an audience (well, just me and a tour guide, who translated his craft on this not-so-private tour). I browsed lazily in the store attached to the factory. There is no crowd to fight with. My most touching discovery was a visit to the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, a little-known museum dedicated to the work of Renaissance artist Tintoretto, who trained under Titian. Since I don't know much about the art of the period, I was drawn to its large, dramatic canvases that captured religious themes in bold colors and dramatic light. To really see the canvases on the ceiling and high on the walls, the museum provides you with (heavy but portable) mirrors to help you get a closer look.

I was one of the few visitors to the Scuola Grande di San Rocco that day, and I felt as if I was lost in a dream of time and place.

Here is a travel tip: If one of the benefits of visiting Venice is that there are significantly fewer tourists and easy access to shops, cafes, museums and glass factories, then on the other hand some of those factories may be closed during your visit (not during Carnival or Festival, but probably in the weeks between them). Travel guides recommend visiting the islands of Murano and Burano this season; my experience in Murano was that, except for my glass factory, the restaurants and shops there were pretty much closed. Also: Even in busier areas, it helps to be flexible. A friend who loves Venice gave me a comprehensive list of places worth visiting; some of them were “on vacation” during my stay.

When choosing a hotel or home away from home for pre- and post-cruise accommodation, you may want to consider different criteria

The Grand Canal in January (there is obviously no need for travelers to wear fur coats on this warm day). /Caroline Spencer Brown

Having been on several Star Legends cruises, I already knew what to expect from my cruise. Choosing a hotel for my three-night cruise was more challenging. Even in January, the options are plentiful.

Usually when visiting Venice you will choose to walk everywhere. Even in January I planned to get on one, but an unusual criterion for this trip was that I wanted to be close enough to a vaporetto station that could take me anywhere if I wanted a ride (sometimes I just hop on a vaporetto because I love the experience of sailing along the Guidecca and Grand Canal). The hotel needs to provide services so that I can go to the restaurant when I don't feel like going out at night.

It needs to be charming because in the winter, you want to be comfortable. I chose CardidioLocated opposite Arsenale station in the Castello district (right at the intersection of the Grand and Guidecca canals). The Armory is even a stop on the route from the airport to Venice. No. 13th The Century Hotel was originally a 13th-century Pilgrim Innth century and has just undergone extensive renovations. There was a warmth about this place that surprised me – not just in its centuries-old walls, but in the way the staff welcomed me with unexpected upgrades that made me feel immediately at home.

In addition, the hotel is very close to a neighborhood where people live all year round, so there are many services nearby (market, indoor and outdoor, pharmacy and relaxing cafes).

Here is a travel tip: Of all the criteria I weighed before choosing this hotel, the most important was its location. Another hotel that caught my eye was La Calcina in the Dorsoduro district of Canal Gaedeca, when I stopped for a cozy (indoor lunch) and met a couple who had just checked in pre-cruise before our Star Legends trip. An added bonus here is that if you don't have a lot of luggage, you can walk to Star Legend's stops.

The weather wasn't as wintery as I thought it would be. Still, pack smart.

Empty cable car! One of the many draws of a winter cruise from Venice is the opportunities. /Carolyn Spencer Brown

My first day in Venice was wonderful. The sunshine on Gadka/Grand Canal is warm and melting. After a stroll through the area, including the Armory Gardens, which I've always loved but perhaps never fully appreciated, I returned to my hotel, where the outdoor cafe was certainly heated and was doing a good job but not too busy. What a beautiful view!

On other days, it could be rainy and foggy, and I had it packed and planned (not just Venice, but the rest of our Adriatic cruise from Croatia and southern Italy). The weather dictated my plans for the day, and being flexible made me feel free. Sometimes people just walk along the canal. Other days I really enjoy prioritizing museum visits, long lazy lunches in cozy boits like La Calcina restaurant, and lovely afternoon naps.

Ironically, even in the rain, Venice has an otherworldly mood.

Here is a travel tip: Because I love Windstar’s in-flight laundry service, which makes me a loyal carry-on girl. Still, I need to plan my cruise adventures ahead of time; have two pairs of shoes, one for wearing on the ship and one for more intense outdoor hikes. I have a wool sweater and a washable cotton sweater. There are two easy-to-wash pants that can transform from active days to cute, indulgent nights (I'm heading to Spain for a Windstar Locals seasonal cruise soon and will be taking the same outfit). There were also a few silk tops to make the evening feel more festive.

The most useful combination, though, is a down vest that keeps me warm when needed, and a great (if not terribly flattering) Finnish poncho that I can throw on to keep me dry. Anyway, I'm ready.

Venice celebrates in winter. you can too

In 2026 and 2027, Windstar is offering several sailings from Venice, coinciding with its wonderful Carnival season. /Adobe

Venice may be quieter in the winter, but don't be fooled—the city still knows how to celebrate. Carnival is probably the busiest “off-season” experience here, with energy that rivals summer. Masks, parades and pageants turn Venice into a living stage with an unforgettable atmosphere (in February 2026, Windstar had two cruise ships calling in Venice during Carnival, including its godmother celebration (Host by Gloria Bohan, Godmother of Star Legend) and Italy and Dalmatian coast in winter.

In 2027, Windstar's new interstellar exploration will make its debut in December 2026 and will visit Venice during carnival.

Winter sailing with Windstar

It’s a sleepy, beautiful Sunday afternoon in Dubrovnik in January.

Windstar's local season cruises have become something I look forward to every year. Last year I sailed from Rome to Barcelona, ​​also on Star Legend. Soon, I will be aboard the Starfinder to explore ports of call in southern Spain.

Venice in winter is a revelation – quieter, more intimate, and endlessly rewarding if you take the time to wander. On the last afternoon, as my visit began to wind down, I turned a corner in the colorful central neighborhood of Santa Croce and suddenly saw an interstellar legend waiting there, hidden in the city as if it belonged to it. That moment captured the magic of boat travel and the way it seamlessly fits into everyday life.

The Adriatic itinerary itself is full of surprises. Dubrovnik is often crowded in the summer, but the feeling changes in January. Without the crowds of tourists, the city showed more of a local rhythm, and on my trip there, I ventured to a farm where we learned how Make traditional Croatian dishesbecame one of my most unforgettable experiences. At the Teatro Antico in Taormina, Sicily, on a sunny, cool day you can watch almost forever. Naples is another delight – it's not always on Windstar's summer routes, but it's a pleasure to explore at a slower pace. I spent the day wandering its storied streets, stopping for a hearty lunch, sipping refreshing local white wine, and savoring the seasonal calm.

The Star Legend is one of the few ships small enough to still be docked in the heart of Venice. /Caroline Spencer Brown

Back in Venice, the Star Legend docked at Santa Croce for the night. I dropped my bags, reconnected with familiar staff, and had dinner at Amphora. That’s the essence of Windstar: after a few days of exploring, getting back on board feels like coming home.

Leaving Venice? This was another unexpected highlight. Sail across the bay toward the Mediterranean and you'll witness the engineering marvels designed to protect the city from rising sea levels. Venice's flood protection system is known as the MOSE project, a series of mobile barriers designed to protect the Venetian lagoon from rising tides and flooding from the Adriatic Sea through giant floodgates at the entrances to Lido, Malamocco and Chioggia.

This trip exemplifies what I love most about Windstar’s European local seasonal itineraries: a balance between exploring cities during the quieter months and returning on a ship that feels personal, welcoming and rejuvenating. Even in January, the Adriatic offers a different kind of warmth, not only in climate, but also in connection.