The splash of Arctic ice and snow on my back after crossing the Arctic Circle on our Havila sailing ship, combined with a hug from a furry Norse god of the sea, confirmed my membership in the Arctic Explorers Club.
For experienced sailors, this crossing is a milestone. For my fellow passengers aboard the Pollux off the coast of Norway, it was a lively deck party that ended with a glass of sailor's rum known as Black Magic, a soul-warming, spirit-lifting concoction.
Crossing the Arctic Circle was just one of the highlights of my seven-day voyage through Norway's stunning fjords in June from Bergen to Kirkenes, near the Russian border.
Other memorable moments include dining on local seafood, gliding silently on battery power, and admiring the stunning views under the midnight sun. Additionally, some adventurous boat trips introduced us to puffins, reindeer and the indigenous Sami people of Norway.
Many cruise lines include Norway on their itineraries, but Hawera's four ships are unique in that they only sail to Norwegian ports and carry no more than 640 passengers each. It's small enough to navigate the country's 1,000 fjords and 320,000 islands.
The Alliance for the Protection of Nature and Biodiversity, Germany's oldest environmental association, ranks Havila's ships among the most environmentally friendly in the world. Its ships are powered by a combination of liquefied natural gas and battery energy, reducing carbon emissions by 35%.
Havila, a family-owned company, started sailing in 2021 after Norway opened its coastal routes to competition, ending Hurtigruten's long dominance in the region.
Passengers aboard Pollux on Hawera cruises can get an up-close look at one of Norway's largest bird sanctuaries at North Cape. Photo credit: Barbara Redding
simple pleasure
A trip to Hawera feels part ferry, part adventure cruise. The ships travel along century-old coastal routes and call at more than 30 ports year-round, transporting mail, cargo and people. Travelers can hop on, hop off for a short trip, or book a 13-day round trip between Bergen and Kirkenes.
The appeal of Hawera is in its simplicity: the drama of nature. There are no casinos, Broadway shows or theme nights. Passengers waved to passing fishing boats and sat in deck chairs gazing at mountains rising from the sea.
My sister and I boarded the Pollux, the gateway to the fjords, in Bergen. The ship's sleek Nordic design immediately makes an impression. The interior spaces are elegant and comfortable, featuring soft gray and blue tones that reflect the sea and sky. Norwegian art adds warmth and color.
Norwegian salmon with capers and lemon. Photo credit: Barbara Redding
Life on board is relaxed and casual. Meals are served a la carte using local ingredients. Breakfast is served as a buffet only, but guests can also order from the kitchen. I love all things seafood, from fresh salmon and cod to seared scallops and open-face shrimp sandwiches.
Most of the crew are Norwegian but are fluent in English and German and eager to share their country's traditions.
Although only about a dozen of the 300 passengers on our ship were from the United States, North American interest was growing. Lasse Vangstein, Hawera's chief communications and sustainability officer, said the share of passengers from the United States and Canada has increased from 3% in 2022 to 12% in 2025.
Havila Voyages' Pollux lounge's large windows and glass ceiling showcase views of the fjord. Photo credit: Barbara Redding
My sister and I quickly recognized the appeal. By sailing close to the coast, Havila's ships can enjoy up-close views of Norway's rugged coastline. From the deck or through the lounge’s floor-to-ceiling windows, we marveled at the ever-changing panorama of sheer cliffs, fishing villages and gorgeous lighthouses.
Equally impressive is Havila's respect for the environment. As we entered the fragile Geirangerfjord, the Pollux switched to battery mode. We sail silently and emission-free into the narrow UNESCO-designated fjord, listening to the sounds of the Seven Sisters Falls as they tumble into the sea.
Our Ocean View Premium cabins are compact but thoughtfully designed with windows large enough to enjoy fjord views. After crossing the Arctic Circle, blackout curtains helped us sleep despite unlimited daylight. Parts of northern Norway enjoy 24 hours of sunshine from mid-June to August.
More than half of Pollux's 179 cabins have ocean views and feature queen or twin beds; 24 suites offer extra space, balconies and fireplaces, two of which have private whirlpool tubs on their balconies. Most cabins can accommodate up to four guests.
Port of Svolvær, Lofoten Islands. Photo credit: Barbara Redding
Go ashore
Some port calls last only 10 minutes, just enough to unload or pick up cargo. Others extend a few hours to allow time to explore independently or take a guided tour. My sister and I visited Trondheim and Tromso on our own, but also took part in tours to more remote locations.
Expedition Director Magne Skjerdal enriched our trip with daily updates on port stops and excursions, Viking lore and Norwegian language lessons.
One of our favorite tours took us deep into the magnificent Geirangerfjord, where we visited a cultural center and learned how glaciers carve the fjord. We then walked down the 327 steps of the thundering waterfall before a bus took us to a cliff-top viewing platform.
On another tour we learned how cod fishing around Lofoten founded the country. The exhibits we visited at the Lofoten Museum told the story of the harsh conditions faced by those who once braved arctic storms on open boats.
We took an inflatable boat to the North Cape Bird Sanctuary, one of the largest seabird colonies in Norway. Puffins, sea eagles and seals crowd the rocky outcrops of the icy Barents Sea.
A Sami elder and an interpreter share Aboriginal customs. Photo credit: Barbara Redding
It’s equally exciting to see reindeer roaming the tundra on our Sami Culture Tour. Around a campfire in a traditional sod hut, an elder from the village of Davisida tells the story of the nomadic life of the Sami people. He sang a haunting joik – a traditional folk song that stayed with us after our visit.
Tours vary depending on season and weather. Summer outings include hiking, biking and cultural visits; winter is the season of the Northern Lights, dog sledding and snowmobiling.
In addition to providing daily briefings on board, Skjedal also introduced us to Njord, the Norse god of the sea, at our Arctic Circle deck party.
Niord is actually a sailor disguised as a bushy beard and cloak who carries the aforementioned scoop of ice to baptize first timers in the Arctic Circle. Part myth, part prank, this celebration marks our rise to the top of the world.
When we arrived in Kirkenes I regretted not signing up for the round trip. My Havila cruise immersed me in the timeless beauty, flavors and legends of the Norwegian coast. But I know there is more to be discovered.
